Rock climbing glossary

Every now and then I get asked, what is a V12? What is a „roof“ and what are Crashpads?
To satisfy your thirst for knowledge I’ll explain some of the climbing vocabulary in this post.

Bouldering:
Bouldering is a type of rock climbing where you do not use a rope. The climbing will usually happen in low heights (+/- 4meters bloc height).

Ascent, Flash and OnSight:
If you climb a boulderproblem without someone else pushing you, without touching (dabbing) the Crashpad or anything else besides the rock you did „send“ it. The goal of bouldering is to figure out how to climb a problem and then work on it until you send it. 🙂

If sending a route or boulderproblem in your very first attempt (First Go) it increases our archivement. If someone told you what to do and helped you by shouting „around the corner, there is a hold you did not see!“ or something similary the send is called a Flash. If, in the meanwhile, no one helped you, and you did not ever watch anybody climbing on it, it would have been an OnSight.

The very first person sending a boulderproblem gets it’s First Ascent. Usully the First Ascentionist has invested more time then successive Repetitors, because he had to find a solution for the boulderproblem without knowing if it will even be possible. The First Ascentionist is the one who is allowed to name a boulderproblem and suggesting a Grade for it. Repetitors will add their input until the grade has setteled.

Crashpad:
A Crashpad is a bigger piece of foam, surrounded by a robust fabric and designed as an oversize backpack. On this trip we carry around two Evolv Maverick Crashpads (5kg each) plus two little Wingman Crashpads (1,5kg each). After carrying the Crashpads into an bouldering area, they are placed below the boulderproblem you are trying to climb and will save your back and your ancles when gravity is stronger then you.

Evolv Maverick and Evolv Wingman

Grading Systems:
If talking about boulderproblems you tried or you succeded to climb, there exist different grading systems. The most common one is the french grading system, which was invented in Fontainebleau (fb), France long ago. It uses a mix of numbers and letters as …, fb7B+, fb7C, fb7C+, fb8A, fb8A+, fb8B …
An other one is the Vermin (V) Scale. This system was first used in Hueco Tanks, Texas and is the most common one in the USA, Australia and other countries. It is possible to translate V-Grades into fb-Grades, but usually I talk about the current climbs in the local area grading system, which is the V-Scale for Australia.

V0: Usually inclined boulderproblem on big holds and with good feet. Beginners should be able to solve such a problem.
V3: either holds are smaller now, or the problem is steeper (more arm power required). Basic climbing tecnique required.
V5: out of range for most beginners. It starts to get really technical or powerful now.
V8: 1978 „Midnight Lightning“ in Yosemite was the hardest boulderproblem in the world. To climb this grade you need to practise a lot
V11/fb8A: requires specific training and strong motivation.
V14/fb8B+: the hardest Flash Ascent.
V16/fb8C+: the hardest problems in the world. Only a few of those exist.

Katinka sending a nameless V6 at Mount Fox, Southern Grampians

Before beeing pregnant Katinka managed to climb a couple of V9 (fb7C) boulders and one V10 (fb7C+). I have climbed more then 20 V11 (fb8A) boulders and a couple of V12s (fb8A+) so far.

Others
A slab is inclined piece of rock. Most pressure will be on your feet, handholds might be really scarce and it involves a lot of balance to climb it.
A roof is a really steep piece of rock. Holds trend to be bigger and you usually need more power in your arms.
A hook is a technic for your feet. Using the back of the heel to apply pressure to a hold is called a heelhook. A toetook is securing the upper side of the toes on a hold.

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